Dear Drugs-Forum readers: We are a small non-profit that runs one of the most read drug information & addiction help websites in the world. We serve over 3 million readers per month, and have costs like all popular websites: servers, hosting, licenses and software. To protect our independence we do not run ads. We take no government funds. We run on donations which average $25. If everyone reading this would donate $5 then this fund raiser would be done in an hour. If Drugs-Forum is useful to you, take one minute to keep it online another year by donating whatever you can today. Donations are currently not sufficient to pay our bills and keep the site up. Your help is most welcome. Thank you.
Inactive Ingredients and Colors
The inactive ingredients in ADDERALL XR capsules include: gelatin capsules,
hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, methacrylic acid copolymer, opadry beige, sugar
spheres, talc, and triethyl citrate. Gelatin capsules contain edible inks, kosher
gelatin, and titanium dioxide. The 5 mg, 10 mg, and 15 mg capsules also contain
FD&C Blue #2. The 20 mg, 25 mg, and 30 mg capsules also contain red iron oxide
and yellow iron oxide.
These will be addressed in the order of their appearance here.
My copy of the Merck Index lists amphetamine sulfate as having a solubility of 1:9 in water and 1:500 in ethanol, with amphetamine lactate having similar solubility. This source lists amphetamine sulfate's solubility in acetone as similar to its solubility in acetone. However, the ethanol used in that table is 95%, so its solubility in anhydrous ethanol would probably be lower. Amphetamine salts will also be virtually insoluble in non-polar solvents.
Now we need to take a look at the inactive ingredients. The capsules will obviously be discarded before extraction.
Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose (hypromellose) is listed as dissolving slowly in cold water and being insoluble in hot water. It is also listed as being soluble in polar organic solvents, so an ethanol pull would eliminate this ingredient.
In the Merck Index, methacrylic acid is listed as being soluble in anhydrous alcohol when polymerized.
I found a source that lists (http://www.mhra(dot)gov.uk/home/grou.../con065641.pdf) opadry beige as a mixture of hypromellose, titanium dioxide, macrogol, yellow ferric oxide and red ferric oxide. Hypromellose has already been taken care of, and the metal oxides are insoluble in water and ethanol. Macrogol is another name for polyethylene glycols. Judging by the wording used in the solubility information in its MSDS, higher molecular weight PEGs are soluble in acetone, whereas all PEGs are soluble in ethanol. Acetone must be used here, since the PEGs in opadry beige are presumably higher molecular weight ones, considering that the beads aren't a sticky mess.
Sugar spheres are going to be soluble in water at all temperatures. You could separate them using chromatography, but I don't think that's worth the effort for most people unless they already have a column set up and are familiar with the procedure.
It's unfortunate that the inks contained are not specified, but it's possible that they'll be removed with a pull. Either way, it's not not that important.
Gelatin and titanium oxide have already been addressed, and as said above, the capsules will be discarded before extraction.
Magnesium sulfate (Epsom salts)
Acetone (Can be acquired at hardware stores in the painting section)
Ethanol (Everclear is a good choice here)
Filters (preferably lab filters+a Büchner funnel, but coffee filters are fine I guess)
My procedure (I'll test it when I get the chance) would go something like this:
1. Bake Epsom salts in the oven at ~500 F for around two hours to get anhydrous magnesium sulfate. Store it in a dry airtight container immediately upon removal, as MgSO4 is very hygroscopic. Smash the MgSO4 into tiny pieces before using it.
2. Add MgSO4 to Everclear and acetone until MgSO4 no longer forms clumps, reseal containers, shake vigorously, and store overnight.
3. Powder beads in a mortar and pestle (it's not necessary, but it makes life much easier—trust me)
DO THESE STEPS IN THE PROPER ORDER I.E. THE ORDER THEY'RE LISTED.
4. Add powder to to a container, add anhydrous acetone, mix, and then pour into a filter setup.
5. Discard the acetone. You can reclaim it by distillation if you'd like, but that's not a necessary step.
6. After powder is dry, add it to a container, add anhydrous ethanol, mix, and pour into a filter.
7. Discard ethanol. This definitely doesn't need to be reclaimed unless you're really anal, as it's pretty harmless to the environment, doesn't arouse suspicion upon being purchased, and is cheap.
8. Once powder is dry, add it to a container, add water, mix, and pour into a filter setup.
9. Discard remaining powder.
10. Evaporate the water. What's left should be relatively pure amphetamine without all of the other junk.
You still can't smoke it, as the decomposition temperature of amphetamine salts is near their boiling point. Other than that, enjoy it however you wish.
Edit: Would this be more appropriate here or in the extraction forum? I'm asking because there isn't a designated area there for amphetamine extraction.