Discussion in 'Nitrous Oxide' started by Bodhisattva500, Mar 19, 2005.
I havent tryed this but will soon!
here is another good instruction for a selfmade cracker:
Alright... I know many of us enjoy nitrous oxide... N20 is quite fun when used responcibly... Some of us thoughcan not obtain a canister and have to resort to whippets... Many know where topurchase whippet crackers online... But the bulbulator is another way to build one... If you are desperate...Heres all the info on building one... It gives me a cirtain satifisfaction when I build isomthing myself rather then purchase one... As far as I'm concerned, nitrous use is quite like being a Jedi knight. You're not doing it properly until you've made your own bulbulator. This is for those who do not know where to obtain crackers... Here you go.
Focus your attention on an example picture:
If the Class will observe the above illustration, they will note that the device in question is constructed from common or garden brass plumbing fittings, available from any hardware store. In order from the cap at the left to the nozzle at the right, the components are:
<LI>One 3/4" thread end cap, which screws into:
<LI>One 3/4" to 1" converter, which screws into:
<LI>One 1" to 1" 90 degree elbow piece, into the other end of which screws:
<LI>Another 3/4" to 1" converter, into which screws:
<LI>One 3/4" to 3/4" joiner, the other end of which is the nozzle over which one puts one's balloons.</LI>
The protrusions on the left hand collar of the elbow piece are the heads of 6-32 socket head cap screws (hex drive screws which are Better Than Phillips Head, which in turn are Better Than Slotted Head, which are Crap. Woodworkers persist in using slotted head screws, and should all therefore be executed). Three of these screws are evenly spaced around the collar to keep the bulbs centred. A bulb fits neatly into the depression in the end cap, and the three positioning screws make sure the other end of the bulb lines up with the firing pin. I went all anal and perfectionist when lining the screws up, but a piece of bent wire would do the job.
The firing pin is another 6-32 cap screw, and its head is the other protrusion, casting a shadow at the bottom. The end of the firing pin has been ground to a point, the angle of which is about 30 degrees. This sort of pin works by tightening the bulb down onto the pin, puncturing the seal, then backing off a little to let the gas out in a rush.
All of the component threads are wrapped with a few layers of thick, high quality yellow Teflon gas seal tape. This includes the nozzle threads, which are sharp enough to cut balloon necks if not covered with something. A ring of thick silicone rubber tubing has been added to the nozzle lately, and helps further.
The total parts cost for this gadget was about $AUD25. The only remotely challenging part of the project was getting the three locator screws evenly spaced around the collar, and drilling and tapping (cutting threads into) the four screw holes. Tapping small holes in brass is piss-easy, but not if you don't have a tap set. The only part that really needs the security of a tapped hole is the firing pin; bulb crackers MUST have a VERY FIRMLY ATTACHED firing pin, because it comes under considerable strain and bulb pressure is probably enough to fire a poorly fixed pin into your leg.
This bulbulator's chief design flaw is its total lack of insulation. After a few bulbs on a chilly day, the bulbulator starts to accumulate a layer of frost, and the head of the firing pin gets cold enough to inflict a freeze burn from the very first bulb. It's easy, with a little practice, to hold the bulbulator so that it doesn't become a part of you, but it's still not user-friendly.
A cracker made from plastic tubing would be less likely to bite you, and easier to make with the crappy tools most people have. Allow me to repeat, though - GET THE FIRING PIN RIGHT.
A bulbulator is not a knock-it-together-in-ten-minutes device, like those funny little plastic bottle water pipes one finds abandoned all over the place. But a bulbulator is a great deal easier to make than, say, a still. Ask for help from the friendly staff at the hardware store. Even if you don't really need help, it's good for a laugh.
Enjoy this information...Cheers. Edited by: AcmeSewageCo
Re: Build your own cracker
i found this site to make a cracker, they call it a Bulbulator, not sure how well it works tho
Re: Build your own cracker
is there an english version to that page? that cracker looks pretty good, but i cant read a single word of it.
Ventiloberteilkapsler... the word has a nice ring to it...
Whilst a cool little project its kind of pointless when you can pick up a cracker made specifically for the job for a simmilar price as the components needed here, and for a fraction of the hassel.
Last time SWIMM was searching for a new cracker he hapened upon a little known secret in the world of NOS, helium canistors are of exactly the same type as NOS canistors. This means that appuratus used to pop helium canisters can pop NOS canisters. Where this is all leading it the point that poro-cyclists use hand held crackers to put helium in their tyres, and subsequently there is demand for such crackers on the interweb.
That would be the one i have, It is a 16gm cracker, not 8gm, but 16gm canisters are easily available. (also somthing SWIMM discovered himself, the bits that break on the canister are the same size on all varients of canister, pop 14 1p pieces into the bottom of the cracker and a little bit of card wrapped around the inside edge of the holder to hold the smaller canister steady and this thing is quite capable of cracking 8gm canisters aswell!).
For a fiver its just brilliant value, its plastic which means no skin burns, it has a trigger and can store half used canisters indefinately (SWIMM's did break at one point when a rubber washer broke, but he managed to fix it easily enough with a new washer). It is simply the best cracker SWIMM has ever happened upon and as far as he is concerned should be the only place you ever look for a new cracker.