Butane Honey Oil

Discussion in 'Hashish & BHO' started by xfactor, Feb 18, 2006.

  1. xfactor


    Reputation Points:
    Feb 16, 2006
    Butane Brands

    Not all butane is created equally; there are 2 different types of butane that make up the most common brands of butane. Isobutane and N-Butane.

    Most cheap brands use Isobutane (2-METHYL PROPANE) and is more toxic and hazardous than N-Butane. For making Honey oil N-Butane is what we want, it extracts better and leaves very little to no residues in the oil.

    Other brands use a mix of the different types, and some, like Colibri, use propane as well as Iso and n-butane

    Boiling Points
    ISOBUTANE: -11.7 C
    N-BUTANE: -0.5 C

    No source of pure N-Butane has been found available in stores, only through Gas Supply Companies.

    The best brand of butane I have used is Colibri Butane. I highly recommend Colibri, and you should be able to find it at most Fine Cigar and Tobacco Shoppe’s. Below is a list of other brands that are good for making Honey oil with. If you cannot find Colibri try to find one of the butane brands listed. And by all means avoid Ronson, Bernz-o-matic or other butane not listed below, they add smell to their butane and this smell is left behind making the oil taste very bad.

    Other Brands that are good to use:


    This is by no way a complete list, and there is no promise this info will always be correct, manufactures can change recipes at anytime. This list is the brands that carry the “Near Zero” impurity label, which means they are not supposed to have more than 15ppm of impurities, what they are is not know.

    When you purchase the butane make sure you find the largest size of can you can. I use the 300ml/167g (6oz) cans of Colibri. Most places only carry the little 2oz cans, these are not enough. You will need at least 8oz of butane for every 1oz of plant material.

    If you find a brand that’s not listed you can do the mirror test to check to see if it’s ok to use.

    Mirror Test

    Take a mirror or piece of glass and spray some liquid butane into it. A good amount. (You may need some pliers to press the nozzle in) Wait about 5-10mins for the butane to evaporate and check the mirror for a white residue. The residue also smells bad. Don’t confuse water condensation for residue. Also even Colibri leaves a very slight residue, but it doesn’t smell. Check for Smell.

    Plant Material

    This is the most important factor if you wish to achieve high quality honey oil, Good fresh dried uncrushed bud makes the best honey oil, and you should easily achieve clear oil using uncrushed buds. Grind them up and do a second extraction to get a lower grade “B” wash, not as tasty or clear like the first batch.

    Butane extracts the smell from the plant material, so if you have some great smelling buds the oil will also take on that smell. If you use bad smelling or tasting plant material, you will get bad tasting oil.

    Using crappy plant material can also result in low yield and oil dark in color.

    Plant Material-|-Recommended amount Butane-|-Estimated Yield
    1oz High quality bud-|-12oz-|-3-6g
    1oz Average bud-|-10oz-|-2-4g
    1oz low grade bud-|-9oz-|-2-3g
    1oz high quality trim leaves-|-12oz-|-3-5g
    1oz trim & leaves-|-10oz-|-2-4g
    1oz fan leaves-|-8oz-|-1-2g

    Extraction Tube

    The extraction tube should be no wider than 1.5”, I find ¾” to be the best. The tube should be made of Stainless steel or Thick glass Only, You can use a copper tube if you cannot find stainless or glass, but only if you clean the tube well before each extraction. Copper tarnishes and the tarnish can potentially be extracted by the butane.

    Avoid ALL Plastics, brass, steel and galvanized steel pipe, these all can contaminate your oil and make you sick.

    I found a cheap stainless steel turkey baster works very well with little modification. It holds about 1/2oz of bud and can yield 2.5-3g of oil from ½ oz of good bud and 4-5oz of butane.

    Some people like to build a contained extraction tube with valves to hold the butane in and let it sit in the plant material for a long time to maximize extraction but this is unnecessary. An open ended tube where the butane can flow through and drip into a collection dish is the easiest to build and makes much better oil. Allowing the butane to sit in the plant material will make your oil greener.

    I use a ¾” by 9” Stainless Turkey Baster tube with a screw cap top and a small hole for the butane nozzle. Use a drill to make a 7/64” hole. Leave the bottom Open Ended, a paper basket style coffee filter, and stainless steel screen or metal window screen will be attached here when the tube is filled with the plant material. Use a Hose Clamp to attach your filters.

    For the collection dish I use a Pyrex casserole or pie dish. Avoid metal collection dish as they can spark, you can use them but I don’t recommend it.

    Honey oil is very sticky and it’s a lot easier to scrape it up from a flat bottom dish with square sides or one with out corners but I have yet to find the perfect dish, Make sure your collection dish can hold at least 500ml of liquid.


    Make sure your plant material (Leaves, Trim, Stems, or Buds) are very dry, the dryer the better. If you want clear honey oil with a lower yield, pack the tube without grinding or breaking up the plant material. The butane will extract the high quality oil on the outside of the plant material then unpack the tube, Grind up the plant material into a powder, you don’t want any chunks in it, it should a coarse powder, and re-extract a lower grade oil.

    The better the starting material the better the oil. If you use males or just fan leaves don’t expect awesome oil. You can also use butane extraction to salvage moldy buds.

    Fill the extraction tube full with the powdered plant material; avoid making air pockets in the tube. I like to fill the tube a little then pack it down and repeat until the tube is full.

    Don’t pack it to much and try to make sure the tube is full, if you don’t have enough plant material to fill your tube then try to get a smaller tube. Air pockets let the liquid butane expand to gas and lower the efficiency a little.

    After your tube is filled then you can place your screen on the bottom, Coffee filter works well. The picture shows a steel mesh screen with a coffee filter, which would work the best.

    Find some way to mount the tube on a stand or get an oven mitt as the tube gets very cold, and you won’t be able to hold it with your bare hand for very long.

    Once the tube is filled and prepared its time to get your collection dish, tube, butane and stand or glove and venture outdoors.

    This is the most dangerous part of the whole process:

    Find a safe, secluded place where you can do the extraction. Hold or mount the tube over the collection dish and place the nozzle of the butane can in the hole you made in the end cap. Release the entire can of butane into the tube, it will take anywhere from 30 secs. To 1 min for the liquid to start to drip from the bottom of the tube into the collection dish. If no liquid comes out of the tube and you have used an entire can then get another can, Packing the plant material to tight can cause a build up of pressure and stop the butane from flowing, if this happens do not let the pressure build to high and take your time.. Eventually the butane will make its way out the bottom. If the butane starts to come out the top hole then slow the release of butane into the tube.

    Continue to empty the can until its just releasing gas (you will hear the difference), remove the spent can. If you are extracting more than 1oz get another can. I usually run 1 6oz can as my tube will hold about 1/2oz of plant material.

    After the last can is emptied I let the tube drip for another few mins, the liquid in the dish should have a golden color to it. It may be hard to see.


    I like to bring a thermos filled with boiled water to my extraction location along with a frying pan so I can do the evaporations outdoors. It should only take about 15-20mins to evaporate it all.

    Or you can do your evaporations indoors as long as you take every precaution and are aware of the risk of fire if a spark or flame reaches the evaporating butane. And be sure not to let it pool in low areas.

    I have a small fan close by blowing at the dish to avoid butane pools but the electric motor can cause sparks so be sure to keep it blowing at the butane instead of sucking the butane out.

    Place the collection dish into a larger dish or frying pan filled with hot tap water or water that was boiled and watch the butane start to bubble. The hot water will get cold quickly so change it often until the butane/oil mix starts to thicken up.

    Once the oil gets thicker I let it cool in the freezer in the collection dish. I recommend you do another heating with hot water to make sure all the butane is evaporated.

    Be careful not to overheat or evaporate for too long. The longer you apply heat the darker your oil will get. Once the oil no longer bubbles from boiled water then its usually ready, no more heat is needed.

    The oil might still bubble when a lighter is applied but this is not butane gas bubbles. It’s just the nature of the honey oil.

    If you find your honey oil gets hazy or cloudy it is usually cause by trapped butane, do another purge to get the last of the butane out.

    Once you’re done evaporating the butane, the honey oil can be smoked. If you let the honey oil sit in the collection dish, keep it covered in a dark place for a week - the honey oil will harden and you can chip it off, it will be solid but melt when heated.

    Handling Storing and Smoking

    You can use a razor blade to scrape up the oil from the dish. I like to put my oil into 5g Glass vials for storage; you should be able to find the vials at your local head shop. It’s pretty tricky to fill the vials with oil and it will take a bit of practice to get it right.

    You can leave the oil in the collection dish and scrape it as you smoke it as well, make sure you cover the dish with plastic wrap so no dust and other things get stuck in your oil.

    Depending on your collection dish shape, it might be difficult to remove all the oil from the corners. I found a little tool that works very well for getting all the oil from the dish. It’s used for mixing paints and it looks like a little flexible knife that can bend to get in all the corners. It’s called a Palette knife and you should be able to find that at an art supply store.


    I like to vaporize my oil on hot knives, Take a butter knife and stick it between the electric elements in your stove and crack up the heat, or use a butane or propane torch to heat the knife up. When it’s nice and hot remove the knife and uses a pin to drip a drop of oil on the hot knife and suck up the smoke with some sort of tube. I use a pen tube or custom glass hooter.

    Ash bowls are another common way to smoke oil. Take a pipe or bong and fill the bowl with ashes from a cigarette and then drip a drop of oil on top of the pile of ashes. Then light the bowl with a lighter and smoke like you normally would.
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 10, 2017
  2. Solidly-here

    Solidly-here Gold Member

    Reputation Points:
    May 3, 2005
    Xfactor Posted his Butane Extraction help. This looks remarkably like an older Post by Psyvision2000, called "Butane Honey Oil Process."

    A lot shorter version (which really works) is Sunyata's "Simple Hash Oil Extraction."

    And Alfa gives several extraction Methods (including a simple one with Butane) in his Post "How to Extract THC."
  3. xfactor


    Reputation Points:
    Feb 16, 2006
    Cool I am glad there is a shorter version, I just didn't run across it so I figured I would share.

    Alfa is a good guy with a lot of good info I am sure his posts are great and dead on!
  4. Stoned Tones

    Stoned Tones Newbie

    Reputation Points:
    Apr 10, 2010
    35 y/o
    i found if the hard oil is heat treated until it stops boiling (eventually it will) medium heat over the toaster works well, stirring often, It will turn black and it will relax to a liquid, and it still does everything its supposed to do, but it never bubbles again. I have a feeling that if it is still hard, that it may indicate the presence of something left behind.

    I would like to hear anybodys thoughts on this
  5. vantranist

    vantranist Silver Member

    Reputation Points:
    Jun 23, 2006
    from antigua_and_barbuda
    To collect your oil easeir you can also drip the butane out into a bowl of water. The honey oil will float on top of the water and will easily stick to a credit card or a coin.Collect all the honey oil from the surface of the water with a credit card and you wont have to scrape anything up or lose residue in the dish you evaporate in, no scraping corners or bullshit like that.
    Last edited: Apr 10, 2010
  6. noAverageJoe

    noAverageJoe Titanium Member

    Reputation Points:
    Dec 16, 2009
    from The Netherlands
    Cannabis resins are not liquid at room temperature by itself.
    So when the gas is evaporated, it should pretty much be solid again.
    Like regular hash. Maybe a little softer.

    If it's not firm, then there is still solvent present in there.

    If someone needs it to be somewhat liquid, put in some drop of pure alcohol.
    That's safe and won't evaporate as quickly as gas.
  7. crazypieboy

    crazypieboy Newbie

    Reputation Points:
    Feb 25, 2010
    28 y/o
    I was wondering if you could use this extraction procedure on other substances and even substitute the gas for certain substances?
  8. reporter92107

    reporter92107 Newbie

    Reputation Points:
    Nov 5, 2010
    from California, U.S.A.
    sure. butane is a non polar solvent, like naphtha or xylene. at certain temps and pressures(do not know exact numbers, been a while since i read it)it is a supercritical solvent. like CO2. CO2 is used to extract salvinorin A but my understanding is that it is a huge machine/device thing not homemade tube, because of the temperatures and pressures involved.
  9. unknownid

    unknownid Newbie

    Reputation Points:
    Dec 22, 2010
    from Canada
    I would not do this. Moisture effects the amount of sizzle that will occur. Meaning when oil is placed on ti, or whatever My method of vaping is, it will sizzle and, well, kind of like oil in a pan sizzle off as soon as contact is made. Best is to just spray nug into a pyrex dish and use a paint scraper with a handle to get it.

    WAIT UNTIL ALL OF THE BUBBLES ARE GONE AND THEN WAIT SOME MORE. Bubbles are trapped butane. Make sure they are gone before scraping. I have found that the amount of heat applied during the purging process will effect the consistency of the oil when you scrape it.